Tales of the Cocktail may have officially started on July 16, but for several intrepid rum-lovers, the festivities got going on a little earlier.
On Tuesday, July 15, Ed Hamilton opened the 2008 Ministry of Rum Tasting Competition. This year’s competition saw 24 judges sitting on a panel to judge more than 60 different rums and cachacas. Ed had separated the different spirits into their core groups: whites, golds, aged, flavored/spiced, cachacas, and this year saw only 1 rhum agricole and 1 overproof rum (the suspense for who will win the Gold for those categories will not be killing anyone).
The judges were an accomplished group of rum experts from around the U.S., ranging from famous authors to respected bar owners to sommeliers to fantastic bloggers and other who have been reviewing rums and other spirits for years…and some guy that must have compromising photos of Ed or something. It was an impressive group with whom to be seated.
Ed got everyone seated in a room at Arnaud’s, and laid out the ground-rules for the tasting. The rules were fairly simple. Nose and taste the rums, write down a score in 4 different categories (aroma, initial taste, body, and finish), and add up the total. Our sheets had spaces for any comments we wanted to make, and we were given another space to specify whether or not we felt the rum was deserving of a gold, silver, or bronze medal. Each scoring category was rated from 0 – 25, adding up to a possible 100 if we found a perfect rum. The only additional rule that Ed supplied was: please do not talk to each other while judging. This was to hopefully prevent the power of suggestion from affecting the final outcome.
We began the day with the flavored/spiced rums, 19 of them in-all. Glasses were laid out on sheets of paper with 1/4 to 1/2 ounce in them, with a number next to each glass. The judges all began the process of nosing and tasting the spirits, which had already filled the room with a fruity perfume due to a problem with the cork covers that Ed had brought to preserve the nose. These being the flavored rums, there was plenty of nose left.
This being my first experience sitting as a tasting judge, I was a tad nervous. The intense, silent focus in the room was reminiscent of taking an important test in school. Martin Cate, from Forbidden Island, had warned me about this the night before, saying, “You’ll feel like you’re taking your SAT’s or something.” The only sounds in the room were those of sniffing and the occasional glass clinking.
Every judge seemed to have their own approach to working through the samples. Some nosed all of the glasses first and then rated the noses for the entire group before moving on to the palate, while others worked through a single rum at a time. Most (but not all) judges made use of a spit-cup to prevent intoxication, which could be a real concern with so much spirit on the tables. Between tasting the various samples, judges would cleanse their palates with bottled water and neutral crackers.
After roughly 90 minutes, the judges had all turned in their scoring sheets, and Ed revealed which rums were which numbers. The judges gathered closely around the bar, taking pictures and taking notes on which rums matched their tasting notes and scores. There was a great deal of conversation about the difficulty in judging flavored rums because most of the classical rum characteristics that one looks for are covered with the flavors and spices. Personally I tried to determine what the producer was trying to accomplish (e.g. is this peach or mango?), and then judged by how well I thought their offering demonstrated that desire, or if I could even pinpoint their goal at all.
Following a quick lunch, the judges all filed back in to the room and took their seats in front of a collection of 12 aged and premium rums (followed by a separate rating with a single rhum agricole), and the process was played out in a similar fashion. The rums ranged from well-known and common in the US to rums that are currently not on the market. There were a few surprised looks at the reveal. Blind tasting is very different from what I typically do, and many judges were discussing that in a blind tasting you’ll often find that you score your usual favorite rums as the worst and your least favorite rums as the best. Some of that has to do with how your palate changes from hour to hour based on things like what you’ve eaten or how you feel, and some of it is just the universe making fun of you.
This entire process was played out twice more on Wednesday. In the morning a selection of 18 gold rums was placed in front of the noses and palates of the judges. The reveal followed, and in the afternoon a segmented session first of 7 white/silver/platinum rums, followed by 4 cachacas, and then a single overproof.
After 2 days of drinking rum from 11 in the morning until 5 in the afternoon, the judges and their exhausted palates turned in their final scoring sheets and made their way back to the Hotel Monteleone. After dropping off bags and other sundry items, several judges went with Ed Hamilton to Margaritaville (of all places) for ti’ punch. Ed makes a fantastic ti’ punch, and the people behind the bar had no problem letting him work in front of the bar to make the drinks.
Finally, on Saturday, July 19, The Minsitry of Rum posted the results of the 2008 Ministry of Rum Tasting Competition. Congratulations to all of the medal-winners!
For those of you interested in reading more about this year’s Tales of the Cocktail, be sure to check out the group blog: TalesBlog!